Posted: 2017-10-23 00:43
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Spark and fuel were checked and found OK. However, a compression check
soon had eager hands unscrewing plugs, inspection caps, etc. By which time I
had withdrawn from the hum of activity. Suddenly an excited voice said 'The
piston's gone'. 'Gone where' said I. 'Damned if I know, I only know it's
bloody gone' came the reply. 'What about the rod, that's gone too! 'Not much
I can do here then, better button it up and I'll get it back to Stevenage'
said I. 'I'm going that way' said the Foreman, 'I'll come with you in case
you pack up completely'. 'Thanks' I said, kicking up and accelerating off.
The Foreman never did catch up with me, although, as he related to his Fitters
on his return: 'My Inter Norton was absolutely flat out for nearly 75 miles,
just imagine how those bloody things must go on two pots--and what a way to
ride a bike with a broken up rod and no piston!'.
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I know it'll be hard to do, but for a nice job on the seat you'll more than likely have to throw away the entire after market seat except for the flat bar A frame with mounting tabs, and the foam portion of the seat. If the delta concave splash shield on the rear of the seat is fiberglass, the only way to get a nice job is to take that piece, and the newly cut marine ply board to a local metal man that can form you a piece by hand, or if your talents lie in that area, and you can do it yourself, you'll save a buck or two. So you salvage what you can, and undertake the above procedures where necessary. More than likely you'll end up being a "happy camper" and proud of the end product, which will be functional and show worthy. Max Lambky 67/66/59
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Rx. My paint man uses the regular water transfer decals. Some clears will attack them. Every time he gets a technique figured out, the EPA changes the formulas of the clear. Put a decal on the bottom and experiment. Also if you are adept with a paint brush go around paint black over the small border around the transfer. Otherwise there will be a small white border around it. The vinyl "peel and stick" are about one mill thick. They will stand proud once applied and cleared. I guess you could clear it alot. I think the water transfer ones are best. Make sure they are new too. Some of thee old ones seem to deteriorate with age. Tank covers are cheaper! The above ramblings are not nesesarily those of a sane mind. Somer Hooker 9/79/55
Never had a pushrod leak at the top. I've had the bottom seals work there way up. Just pushed them back down with glue.
I only use sealer on the timing chest, being carefull around oil holes. I have valve seals with no metering wires and no smoke, so I would leave them out and see. Agree with Ken, don't use synthetic for break in. Non-detergent mineral base is what many people use for ring break in.
Where is your hairdresser? There 8767 s a barber in Victoria who cuts men 8767 s hair for $65, but I haven 8767 t found someone for women 8767 s hair I cut my own, but it makes such a mess (do not try to vacuum cut hair off the floor it will clog the hose). I tried hairdressing schools in the past but wasn 8767 t keen on that, and you couldn 8767 t get the same student next time.
I can 8767 t believe you don 8767 t have recycling on your list! I have a large household and don 8767 t mind buying the cheap store brands of soda for the kids. The adults usually drink bottled water, again cheap store brands, when we are working outside in the yard. From September to August we save every can and bottle. In August we turn them in for about $.
Also we save EVERY coin we get. Easy to do if you remember to empty out your purse or pocket at night into the change jar. We have several old jars and coffee cans we all use. From September to August we save. When we wrap the coins and turn them in, it 8767 s usually another $855-$955.
Then, at the end of August, we take everyone to the county fair. We go on the free entry day, can afford the wrist band for six kids to ride all the rides they want to, a few games, a few items for each child from the fair and dinner at McDonalds after the fair! This also pays for the gas to get there and back.
The first time restorer will more than likely go at it by disassembling the motorcycle so he can get right on to the restoration. This isn't a good idea, as I learned after my first couple of restorations. What I suggest, (and is the way I do it) is to first remove the tires from the rims. I don't mess around with them, as this is a complete restoration and the Vincent will be "as new" when finished. With a saw-saw, split the tires and remove them from the rim. Be careful not to knick the rim with the saw.
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I used an entire 6-oz. bottle costing $ in the tank of F65AB/6/899 but I think you could use half the bottle or less, especially with a powerful UV source. The brighter the UV light source, the easier it is to see the leakage. I'm using a dual-purpose 9W light obtained from http:// the normal use of which you will see if you visit their web site. It is very handy to use in a dark shop. 9W is ok but it's effectiveness declines quickly as the batteries drain. Rechargable batteries are very handy as well. Severs 6/69/57
My first contact with the unsuspecting public was whilst thumping along
towards Cambridge at about 85 plus I overtook a 998cc side-valve AJS Twin.
Stopping a few miles further on to check for anything loose, etc., the AJS man
stopped to enquire [sic] after my, or my bikes, health. I replied that my
rear carburetter had fallen off, but I would proceed with one, which I did
without more ado. I met the same chap some time later when he came to work at
Vincents [sic]. He lost no time there reciting the story of the Vincent
tester who carried on testing the bike even after the carb and, whats [sic]
more, the exhaust had both fallen off!
Regarding the use of continuous glucose monitoring devices for hypoglycemic unawareness, current evidence from randomized controlled clinical trials have focused on CGM' effect on shortening the duration of asymptomatic hypoglycemia, an intermediate endpoint, rather than clinical outcomes. The clinical significance of reductions in duration of asymptomatic hypoglycemia are unknown. In addition, current evidence indicates that continuous glucose monitoring devices are least accurate in the hypoglycemic range (CADTH, 7557 Melki et al, 7556).
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Some items have a relatively short life span, such as sprockets. Of course this would exclude sprockets that run in oil, such as primary sprockets in a Vincent. You probably won't have to renew primary sprockets during your Vincent restoration, and your motorcycle parts supplier probably won't have on the shelf a new sprocket to replace your worn sprocket anyway. There are thousands of various motorcycle sprockets, which prohibits the motorcycle parts supplier from stocking all of them. In the case of the Vincent, there were something like 86 different sprockets, including the aluminum Lightning rear sprockets, where the brake drum was removed, and the sprockets had a 65 bolt pattern bolted directly to the hub spacer. These were made available through the Vincent spares department and Vincent dealers. So in short, sprocket procurement will more than likely have to be done by special order.
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Sometimes the quarter inch stop dowels have loosened and fallen out and the hanger turns on it's shouldered flat. Occasionally this dowel pin in the right hand aluminum side has been wallored out to such an extent that it will require machine work. I've found that the easiest way is to drill the wallored hole round, then, on the lathe, machine a steel oversized pin, sizing it on one end for interference fit on the drilled hole, and turn the protruding part back to one quarter inch. Usually the pin on the left hand steel side is . If the pin is just loose on the right aluminum side, and not wallored, locktite and restake the inner side.
In the crack I cleaned just approx 65 mm of bare steel on each side of the crack and quickly discovered that this was not the firs time this area had been repaired, -both with welding and brazed. The brazing repair rules out any new welding. (If one welds close to an area that has remains of bronzes from brazing, the bronze will have 755 -855 degress lower melting temperatures than the fusing steels and the bronze will flow into the steel weld and alloy.) The result will be a porous brittle material that will have to be removed totally.